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LIVING THE LIFE OF A LOCAL IN SAN MIGUEL DE ALLENDE, MEXICO
Exploring the town of Bernal and climbing the Pena
April 24, 2012
We met up with a plastic surgeon who makes house calls
March 23, 2012
Where to Spa in Merida
February 29th
Merida and Mayan country
February 24th
Popular hot springs just outside town - includes our video
December 26, 2011
Cosmetic Surgery Vacation Casa opens as a spa
December 8, 2011
Sense Spa, Rosewood San Miguel
May 4, 2011
My first Samana Santa in SMA
April 24, 2011
It's Jacaranda time in San Miguel
March 21, 2011
Escaping the dust of my new casa at one of San Miguel's best spas."
March 10, 2011
Accidentally walked into this parade...
February 13, 2011
Jesus, the Plant Man, cometh...
February 11, 2011
View from the Travel to Wellness casa
February 10, 2011
Rosewood hotel opens.
February 8, 2011
The first Maguey Festival.
January 28, 2011
Heading back to San Miguel and here's why...
January 16, 2011
What makes San Miguel a destination for the wellness-minded, and other things I loved about it.
November 9, 2010
LifePath Healing & Wellness Retreat
November 1, 2010
Rosewood to open in San Miguel with first luxury spa
October 27, 2010
A sneak peek at San Miguel’s newest thermal baths, the first stage of a mega sustainable development.
October 24, 2010
Is it love...or is it infatuation?
October 17, 2010
Canadian artist Toller Cranston finds his Sense of Wellbeing in SMA
October 14, 2010
So much to see and do here in SMA. Will I ever fit it all in?
September 30, 2010
It wasn't love at first sight
September 25, 2010
It Wasn't Love at First Site
September 25, 2010
It wasn’t love at first sight. Perhaps it was arriving late afternoon and finding out that our beautiful little hacienda seemed further away from the centre of town than we’d expected and we had to walk thru a stretch of rubble to get into town.
Perhaps it was the barking dogs or the thunderous firecrackers exploding in the distance in celebration of a birth or death or wedding or feast (we're told fireworks are fairly common.) Perhaps it was the fleeting thought that the house exchange agreement we’d signed for the next five weeks may have been done a bit in haste. What would we do here for five whole weeks! All combined, it was just a little overwhelming.
But after today, our first full day in San Miguel d’Allende, I may be slowly falling for this iconic colonial town.
I have to admit that stumbling upon the town’s only Starbucks, located in the main Plaza area, got the day off to a good start, but beyond that it was the captivating colonial architecture; stunning domes, high walls draped with greenery, cobbled and hilly streets (love the added bonus of the work out plus the reflexology treat of walking these old stones streets); the genuine helpfulness of the residents; courtyards that open up beyond unassuming facades and countless restaurants, shops and art galleries.
As a photographer and lover of beautiful things, the most captivating of all for me is the colonial architecture that is everywhere – the colour, the details (decorative iron gratings covering windows and accenting doorways, for instancee) but most of all I love the doors. The Doors of San Miguel - each a unique combo of colour, texture and geometry. Actually, everywhere you look there is another photo opportunity.
I can’t wait to see how the remainder of this five-week adventure will unfold.
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So much to see and do here in SMA. Will I ever fit it all in?
September 30, 2010
I’ve been here in San Miguel de Allende one week today and other than inviting me to a bull fight I haven’t heard much from the local tourism board so I’ve been exploring this fabulous colonial city as a regular traveller. I’ve been walking the streets, speaking with residents and perusing local guide books.
One of the best sources I’ve picked up is Atención – the local English tabloid for locals and visitors. It can be purchased for 10 pesos (about $1) at various spots around town.
The pages of Atención are so full of events and activities, I’m not sure what to do first! I found a Chinese yoga class taking place in the courtyard of La Biblioteca(the library), a visual journaling workshop, an energy management class, a kayak outing, a Buddhist meditation event, a Zumba fitness class, a video called the Undistracted Mind at the Meditation Center (I could really use that one) and a handful of events giving back to the community. They also have an Empowerment Centre offering various events.
One display ad that caught my attention was for LifePath - “a centre for learning, healing and retreat.” They offer talks, classes and workshops that cover topics such as Natural Food Cooking, Hypnotherapy, Memoir Writing and Dream Interpretation. There’s also a full range of therapies. I’ve already been in touch with the owner and I’m hoping to visit soon.
Another ad promoted a two-hour spa treatment for $50 U.S. What a deal! It was a special September offer in celebration of the 26th anniversary of The Spa. I missed the offer but will definitely check out The Spa before I leave.
In the classified section, an ad invited people to drop by for a free sampling of Healthy Art Cookies.
There’s a significant number of residents here from Canada and the U.S., and that growing community comes with lots of giving back through local organizations such as Feed the Hungry and a guided tour of historic homes benefiting a local institution caring for abandoned and orphaned children.
There’s a new boutique hotel with a small spa that opened just last week and another new boutique hotel with a spa scheduled to open in October. Both are on my list to visit.
There’s at least two all-organic restaurants and an organic farmers’ market every weekend.
There’s even a place here where you can have a face lift. The tag line “as seen on Anderson Cooper.” Hmmmm.
One of my five weeks is already gone. With just four weeks left – how will I possibly do and see everything? Lots to blog about for sure! Stay tuned.
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Is it love...or is it infatuation?
I’ve been living like a local in San Miguel for three weeks now, walking its narrow, cobblestone streets; shopping at the Tuesday Tiangus (the weekly, open-air market); meeting with friends for the 2:00 p.m. main meal of the day, enjoying the fabulous mid-day weather from the courtyard of our borrowed casa…
What I haven’t been doing much of is taking advantage of the vast number of activities – many of them available free to residents and visitors alike.
Instead, my husband and I have been house hunting.
Like innumerable visitors before me, I have been seduced by the charisma of this handsome Spanish Colonial town. Behind many of its ancient, often scruffy colonial facades are delightful courtyards and attractive casas with every convenience. And, roof top terraces many with with furnished lounges, wet bars and striking views – seem to be as common here as kitchens. Prices range from about $149,000 U.S. for a furnished one bedroom, to multi millions of dollars for something on the palatial end of the scale.
Over the past two weeks we’ve seen about a dozen casas – all in Centro the heart of the city – but, as of today, only two are on our short list (meaning they haven’t been totally eliminated). Some have been out of our budget, others too contemporary in design (I want a Mexican or Colonial feel), some located on streets that are too noisy, others too far from the Plaza Principal – the core of the Historic Zone.
However, the word from those in the know is that there are about 400 homes and condos for sale at the moment so it’s definitely a buyers market.
So is it real love or infatuation? Right now the relationship is still so new – just three weeks old - I’m not sure. But one thing is crystal clear: if this potential new adventure is going to fly it will be all about finding the right house, in the right location, at the right price.
Tomorrow, four more houses to see.
Send your advice, suggestion, comments to editor@traveltowellness.com
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A sneak peek at San Miguel’s newest thermal baths, the first stage of a mega sustainable development…
The place has not been “officially” opened, but thanks to owner Gary Richtmyer, Texas expat and San Miguel entrepreneur, last evening I had the opportunity to attend a private party to experience The Mayan Baths at Arc Angel. (Michael the Arc Angel is the patron saint of this Spanish Colonial town.)
There are a number of thermal mineral water baths located on the outskirts of San Miguel (La Grouta and Escondido Hot Springs) are two of the more popular, but the new Mayan Baths are said to be the most luxurious.
"Think old-world Mexican hacienda meets the Roman baths, underground."
A 15-minute drive from San Miguel, and surrounded by about 50-acres of yet-to-be-developed land dotted with cactus, wild grasses and indigenous shrubbery near the village of Atotonilco (the name is ancient Toltec means “place of thermal water”), the Mayan Baths are the first stage of a master plan to build an entirely self-sustainable resort that will include residences, a hotel and a large, full-service spa complex.
Carved into quartz and crystal rock, the baths are a collection of softly lit subterranean water-filled grottos (one with a waterfall), “nichos,” corridors and dry chambers – a few used for massages.
One of the chambers forms a lounge with seating surrounding a pyramid-shaped heaters. It is from here that guests enter a covered canal that leads to a large, thermal water pool surrounded by natural stone, open to the sky and overlooking the Laja River Valley beyond and the Sierra Madre Mountains in the far distance.
Cocooned by warm thermal waters (about 101 degrees F), guests congregate to watch a blood orange coloured sunset. You can’t help but think that thousands of years ago, the Mayan and Toltecs may have soaked in similar waters in this very same region anxiously watching the Sun God disappear. The pool is also the perfect place to star gaze and, tonight, there’s a full moon. Magical.
Mexican and Mayan–inspired features include high, arched boveda ceilings, floors made with stone blocks imbedded into grainy sand, collections of candles in numbers symbolic to the Mayan culture – in one grotto, for instance, 20 candles represent the 20 days of the Mayan month. Hieroglyphs along the walls of the walking tunnels include Mayan symbols such as those for water, wind, fire and food.
In the Topo Loco (Spanish for “crazy mole”) bar, a replica of the Mayan Tree of Life is embedded into the floor like a stone carpet.
The change room area is the only space I’d say still needs some work to prepare it for the “official opening” to the international market. It would also be nice to have robes, sandals and some change room amenities for guest use. But all that, I’m told, is part of the plan.
As this is the first stage of the resort development there are no food preparation facilities on site but they can do offer catered events. One of the culinary highlights of the buffet included in this private party was the ceviche made with Tilapia from the property’s own fish pond and caught just hours prior to serving.
According to a news release: “We intend to make this project a modern, full service, sustainable resort development that treats and conserves natural and human resources with vigilance and respect.” Richmyer says the payback will be “the conservation of the earth and the wellbeing of mankind.”
Personally, I can’t wait to see the finished product.
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Rosewood to open in San Miguel with first luxury spa
General Manager Christian Tavelli tells me the doors of Rosewood San Miguel de Allende will swing open January 20, 2011 to official welcome the first guests. When that happens, the face of hotel accommodations here in this iconic Spanish colonial town will be forever changed. Rosewood will become the first internationally known luxury brand to build on these famed cobbled streets.
Located about a 12-minute walk to the town’s historic centre, the boutique resort will house 67 rooms and suites, three restaurants and the 11,000 square foot Sense – the Rosewood spa brand – which will become the largest and most luxurious spa in San Miguel. Plans call for eight treatment rooms including a Vichy Shower, a couple’s suite and a full menu of services with a 60-minute massage priced about $70 U.S.
Spa director, Adejandro Ortiz, formerly assistant spa manager at the Rosewood Mayakoba says a Mole Scrub will be one of the signature treatments. (Mole – pronounced MO ley - is a dark, rich, traditional Mexican sauce with ground seeds as one of the ingredients. )
Another signature treatment will be an aromatherapy massage using essential oils from locally grown lavender. Tavalli explains that The Lavender Project, “employs single mothers and is one of more than 100 charities here.” In addition to the spa treatment, the locally grown lavender will also be used for soaps and potpourri to keep guest room closets smelling fresh.
A unique signature scent is also under development: Lime off the top, a lingering church-like incense blend (there are more than 60 churches in San Miguel) as a finish, says Tavelli.
The Spa Journeys on the menu will be different from “journeys’ offered at other spas. Here, a Journey will take a spa guest off property on a special excursion – for instance, guests will be taken on a historical or architectural tour wearing special thin-soled shoes that will allow them to reap the benefits of the “reflexology” that comes from walking across the cobblestones. A journey to one of the local thermal mineral baths might be another option.
In further keeping with Rosewood’s branded Sense of Place philosophy, the resort will have an Art Concierge whose job description will include helping guests who want to buy or learn about the art and artists of this internationally known artists’ colony.
The Art Concierge will help guests attend the right lectures or sign-up for a workshop in painting, sculpting, jewelry making or weaving.
Learning will actually be a big part of the optional guest amenity program.
"We’re not a beach destination," says Tavelli, "we’re a place to visit to enjoy, relax and learn something."
Even children will have the option to learn at this “couples and family hotel.” Tavelli is quick to point out that there will be two pools –one for adults, and one for families located adjacent to RoseBuds, the signature children’s club where younger guests – two to eight years of age – can take classes such as learning to speak Spanish, gardening and cooking. Ortiz adds that there will also be a Rosebuds spa menu.
On the culinary side the chef is working with Via Organica to create a special menu. The emphasis will also be on farm-to-table cuisine. “There’s a great cheese factory here, great local wines are being made, a lot of fruit and vegetables are grown locally,” says Tavelli. He adds that the State of Guanajuato (where San Miguel is located) is considered “the orchard of Mexico.” Plans also call for an on-site chef’s garden plus a system that will allow for the composting of organic waste.
Tavelli says the average rate at Rosewood San Miguel will be about $450 U.S., but the special opening rate will be $295 U.S. per room. For the discerning traveller, Rosewood is definitely expected to raise the bar.
I’ll be back here in January to check out the spa. Bring on the Mole Scrub!
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What makes San Miguel a destination for the wellness-minded and other things I loved about it.
I didn’t go to San Miguel de Allende on the invitation of the tourism board. I didn’t go looking for spas. I certainly didn’t go thinking I would hook up with a real estate agent to look for a home to buy. My husband and I were offered the opportunity of a five-week house exchange and since we’d never been to the Spanish Colonial town but had always wanted to visit and already knew a number of artists (formerly from Toronto) who lived there, we jumped at the opportunity.
As I wrote in my first blog, it wasn't love at first sight but it didn’t take me long to fall hard. In random order, here are a few reasons why:
• It’s safe. I felt, and continue to feel now that I am back in Toronto, that San Miguel is a safe place to visit and live. The drug-related violence we hear about taking place around the Mexico/U.S. border is far, far removed from the town’s cobblestone streets. Yes there are the expected crimes and misdemeanors associated with any town of about 80,000 people. But during the five weeks of my visit, I felt completely comfortable walking the streets (and I walked every day) – more so, in fact, than I have felt, on occasion, walking past a few of Toronto’s more “colourful” (shall we say) downtown street corners.
• I was surprised and delighted to find there is a thriving organic community in San Miguel. Restaurants such as El Tomate and Via Organica are just two of a number of local restaurants serving dishes made with naturally-raised products and produce. On Saturdays, there is also a first class organic market in the downtown Parc Juarez. Many of the local restaurants also subscribe to the farm-to-table philosophy and, as the State of Guanajuato (where San Miguel is located) is an important agricultural region, it’s easy to eat fresh, local and seasonal pretty much year round. (Of course, we also need to remember that ALL veggies and fruits – even those organically grown - must be thoroughly soaked prior to eating. It’s a routine anyone living there must just get use to.)
• There’s a good selection of spas, a healing retreat in the heart of the town plus thermal mineral springs within an easy drive. At the moment, the spas are nothing fancy – not like those you’d find in the Mayan Riviera, for instance – but a comprehensive array of spa treatments are available here and, for the most part, prices are more than reasonable. Just outside of town (about a 15 to 20-minute inexpensive cab ride) there are thermal mineral springs such as the newest Mayan Baths at ArcAngel And, for those who are looking for a healing retreat, there’s LifePath Healing & Wellness Retreat
• One of the things I personally look for in a “wellness destinations” is a proximity to pristine and unspoiled nature (be it mountains, lakes, oceans or forests). Other than visiting ArcAngel and the nearby city of Santiago Queretaro, I didn’t venture too far outside the town, however, I did find out that there is a hiking club in San Miguel plus a hiking and biking tour company so I’m thinking “unspoiled nature” must not be too far away. This will be something I will be looking into on my January visit. From a fitness perspective, the major challenge was keeping up with my running schedule. Running along the narrow, uneven, cobblestone streets is not an option, so along with the occasional run around the track at a soccer field, I walked – a lot. Bonus: the “reflexology treatment” that comes with walking over the cobblestones.
• There is a wonderful sense of community here. You see it in the giving back (there are about 30 different locally charities run mostly by expats), and in the warmth and friendliness of most everyone you meet - in the shops, the restaurants and on the streets. “Hola.” “Buenos dias.” I can’t even count the number of times every day I heard those words and repeated them to perfect strangers. Often the words started conversations. That rarely happens in the rush of a big city. My first few days back in Toronto I was walking through a park on the way to the bank and as I watched a woman coming toward me along the same path my first thought was to say “hello, good day” but, fearing she would think I was a weirdo and run screaming in the opposite direction, I didn’t. Sad.
• In its mountain setting, San Miguel is thought to be built on a bed of quartz crystal believed by many wellness professionals and others to magnify energy. Perhaps that is why there is such a positive feeling and sense of well-being that prevails here.
I’m not saying San Miguel de Allende is a perfect place to visit or live, but in traveling the world for close to 20 years now, so far it’s one of only two places (the other is Victoria on Vancouver Island) I could see myself living for a good chuck of the year.
So come January, I’m heading back down to San Miguel to continue the search for the perfect house. That’s the plan anyway. Stay tuned. In the meantime, don’t hesitate to send your comments, advice, questions to me at editor@traveltowellness.com
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Heading back to San Miguel next week - here's why.
Those of you who followed my blog when I visited San Miguel de Allende, Mexico last fall will know that my husband and I were house hunting. We saw dozens of lovely homes in this iconic Spanish Colonial town but few turned out to be The One – or so we thought.
Once back in Toronto, we had time to reflect and review all the homes we’d seen in a more practical sense – that combined with the fact that, at this time in our lives, we really needed a warmer winter option - helped us make the informed decision to put in an offer on a lovely little hacienda located just a few streets from the Jardine – the centre of town.
We are now on our way back to San Miguel to close the deal and begin a whole new adventure. I will be blogging at least several times a week about the ups and downs of moving to a new country – part time, of course. I am proud to be a Canadian and would never give up my citizenship.
Certainly, I will continue to publish Travel to Wellness. Having an online magazine allows one to work from anywhere in the world and San Miguel will become a base for me to explore Mexico and nearby countries.
Bonus for readers: If you’ve ever thought of visiting San Miguel, I will be here to answer your questions.
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