Travel To Wellness Inc.

CRUISE: CANYON RANCH QUEEN MARY ll

Finding serenity in the belly of this hulking beast seems like an impossible task from a dockside vantage point.

The Queen Mary II is the largest ocean liner in the history of maritime travel. She is larger than any of the present-day competition and would dwarf the Titanic if the ill-fated ship had survived her maiden voyage.

One would not be exaggerating to refer to this grand lady of the sea as "intimidating." But as I made my way up the gangway and through her thick steel skin, I realized that almost every inch of this 150,000 ton colossus is devoted to luxury.

By any standard, Cunard's Queen Mary II is a vessel of elegance in the tradition of the greatest ocean liners of days gone by. At 23 stories and almost four football fields in length, she is longer than the Eiffel Tower is tall and five times longer than Cunard's first ship, Britannia.

She boasts the largest ballroom at sea, the only sea-borne planetarium and fine dining to rival the great eateries of Paris and Rome. Her 2,620 passengers have the choice of comfortable state rooms or elegant suites that can cover up to 9,000 square feet over two floors.

But to satisfy the increasingly specific needs of 21st century travellers, designers at Cunard realized that they would need to do more than simply construct a maritime marvel to attract customers.

They would need impeccable service - a highly-trained international crew of 1,253 was the agreed-upon number to meet those heightened standards. They would also have to provide unparalleled recreational options and, perhaps most importantly for over-stressed passengers craving a relaxing experience, they would need a spa.

The idea of adding a spa to a cruise liner is hardly a new idea - devoting a whopping 20,000 square feet to such an oasis, however, takes the concept to an entirely new level.

Canyon Ranch, the purveyors of all things pampering, were called in to operate the space to the demanding standards that discriminating travellers, celebrities and the elite have come to expect at the company's other properties around the world.

By this point I had settled into my room and had the opportunity to review the materials detailing the SpaClub experience. Although impressive, I remained skeptical that the services offered by any spa at sea could ever rival those of a land-based competitor. And so I made my way down to deck seven to learn more about the "wellness and fitness" facilities about which I had heard so much.

With every step I was met with the smiles of fellow passengers, some of whom were left in awe of the ship's tremendous size, others who were amused by the fact that they couldn't find their rooms after wandering down the seemingly endless corridors.

At first glance the SpaClub is a fairly standard space filled with passengers eager to book treatments. Taking a closer look, I realized what the hype was about. Unlike other cruise ship spas, Canyon Ranch built their experience around water. The thalassotherapy pool uses high-pressure aqua therapy, neck fountains and a waterfall to kneed knots out of the muscles of weary passengers. The aquatic treat is essentially a large, elaborate whirlpool with "air beds" on which to relax. And it doesn't end there. Fibre optic lights release calming scents in the aromatic steam rooms, while reflexology basins help to soothe spa-goers' tired feet.

After spending time in this aquatic playground, it became clear to me that this resembled the maritime spas of old in name only. "The individual experience is what a person wants to make of it," says Darryll Leiman, director of Cruise Operations for Canyon Ranch. Visitors can use the facility to design a fitness and nutritional program, tempt their palates with a nutritionally-balanced gourmet meal by a spa chef or indulge in any of the signature treatments.

Euphoria is by far the most popular treatment, according to Leiman. For 100 minutes in a private suite, visitors are draped in oil-soaked bath sheets where they are massaged from scalp to toe before being dipped into a rose pedal bath.

Think of it as Lifestyles of the Rich and Famous coming to the masses at sea. But pampering, I quickly learn, comes at a price. At about $120 U.S. for a basic massage, hedonists can expect to pay slightly more than average for spa services. Specialized treatments such as Euphoria and the Canyon Ranch body thermal cost $239 and $129, respectively.

For those who do indulge, the SpaClub employs 50 staff to provide what Leiman terms "overall lifestyle service." Indeed, staff will influence lifestyles by either massaging their clients into a trance-like state, or getting them into shape in the gym.

Gone are the days when travelling by ocean liner meant overindulgence and decadent extravagance at the dinner table. On this ship calories count and a unit of personal trainers are on duty to make sure their clients walk off the Queen Mary II a bit lighter than when they boarded.

Away from the bustle of the gym, my experience finishes with a stop at the relaxation room where lounge chairs and a panoramic window allow spa-goers the chance to gather their thoughts or fade off to sleep with the gentle rocking of the ship. The room is also a place to absorb the past hours of ocean-riding bliss.

The Queen Mary II and Canyon Ranch have managed to raise the bar where the ocean-going spa experience is concerned. Never again will a few massage tables and a steam room be enough to satisfy passengersat least not those who have spent time travelling on this majestic lady.