CHIVA SOM, THAILAND
by Anne Dimon
As the flight prepares to land at the Bangkok International Airport I don’t know what has me more excited: visiting Thailand for the first time; meeting up with my daughter who’s been backpacking around Asia for the last few months; or visiting the internationally acclaimed health resort Chiva Som. Chiva Som, as it happens, turns out to be the ideal spot for this mother/daughter rendezvous. Even though my head-strong offspring insisted we take one of our three days together for the incredible shopping available in Bangkok, once we arrived at Chiva Som her mantra quickly changed from “come on Mom, I’ve got to take you shopping,” to “this is the coolest place ever.”
Located about a three-hour drive from Bangkok in Thailand’s beach setting of Hua Hin overlooking the Gulf of Thailand, the resort is a collection of traditional Thai style pavilions spread out like a small village. A portion of the 57 guest rooms are housed in garden pavilions, others face the sea. There are open-air pavilions for Yoga, Tai Chi and massages, a bathing pavilion with steam rooms, a cold plunge pool and large Jacuzzi, and a gymnasium with an indoor pool and dance and pilates studios. All together, the pavilions, tropical gardens, curved wooden bridge, reflecting pools, trickling sounds of water and in the distance, the melodic chanting of monks, plus Thai-inspired décor and foods combine to create an exceptional sense of place. “We don’t sell rooms,” says general manager Paul Linder, “we sell a philosophy of health and wellness.”
As do most guests on a Chiva Som wellness package, we begin our program with the resort’s naturopath to assess our general health and discuss objectives of the visit. Next, it’s a Thai massage. Administered while the client lies on a floor mat, this traditional massage is a combination of stretching and acupressure administered with the therapist kneeling or standing and using hands, knees and forearms. With your body being twisted every which way you’ll be glad you’re wearing the traditional Thai Bijaman, a pajama-like draw string pants and loose top handed out prior to the treatment. Yes, it hurts when you’re twisted into something that resembles a misshapen pretzel, but “it will feel better later,” says my petite but surprisingly strong young massage therapist. With the genuine, gentle nature and warmth that seems to flow from the staff at Chiva Som, she interrupts the maneuvers with “excuse please. Turn over.” About the same time, Julia is having an aqua-therapy massage in a circular pool filled with body temperature water. The therapist described it as “a retreat back to the womb.” Chiva Som itself is a retreat from the real world. Translated, the name means “haven of life.”
Complementing an incredible array of treatments and Eastern healing philosophies such as acupuncture, iridology and ayurvedics, is a full schedule of activities including Tai Chi, Yoga, Thai boxing, fruit carving and cooking workshops. Private lessons can also be booked. This afternoon, our instructor is waiting for us with towels and bottles of water in the yoga pavilion. I’ve taken yoga classes before at many spas and resorts but never like this. Sanya makes certain that each and every position is done precisely, with body parts aligned in exactly the right position. It’s not relaxing; it’s hard work. Following up the exertion, we both need a bit of quality “veging” time.
One of the many fine things about Chiva Som is that there are many places in which to do just that. During the day, most people are in workshops or treatment rooms and there are lots of little private spaces, both indoors and out, to be alone (or with daughter) to read, reflect or simply “be.”
Chiva Som’s “gourmet spa cuisine” a pairing of Thai and Western, is creative, beautifully presented, flavourful and there’s plenty of it. But nutrition and good health remain the driving force. “We try to get people away from their normal habits,” says Linder. For instance, instead of offering coffee after a meal they serve herbal tea. “Yes, coffee is available but we charge extra because the rational is that it’s not good for you,” he says.
Chiva Som is not for everyone. Alcohol is limited to wine and champagne served evenings only, there are no televisions in guest rooms, no cell phone are allowed, and evenings are very quiet as guests attend workshops or lectures, or turn-in early. “We offer more than just a holiday,” says Linder. “When you leave us, you take home a sense of being refreshed and rejuvenated.”
Our two-night stay is just way too short. The only thing more disappointing than leaving the refined serenity of Chiva Som was having to leave my freshly-soaked, scrubbed and shampooed backpacker behind to continue her journey-of-discovery in far less luxurious surroundings. “Mom, are you sure we can’t stay just one more day?”
For more information go to www.chivasom.com
Cathay Pacific offers service from Hong Kong to Bangkok
Singapore Airlines offers service from Singapore to Bangkok.