Fishtail by David Burke

Fishtail by David Burke, New York

Fishtail Serves Up Sustainability

by Anne Dimon

New York’s David Burke has long been considered a leader on America’s culinary scene and his latest venture underscores the point.

Fishtail by David Burke, his newest venture which opened early December on Manhattan’s swish Upper East Side, could be the country’s first seafood restaurant totally committed to sustainability.

So, what does that mean? According to the menu – “Fishtail constantly strives to serve sustainable fish through partnerships with Litchfield Farms and by fishing only in sustainable friendly communities in the Atlantic at designated times of the year…..” They say approximately 80 per cent of the seafood served at Fishtail is caught through “sustainable fishing measures.”

Located in a historic townhouse in this ritzy neighbourhood, the restaurant is two level: Downstairs is casual with bar, booths and a late night snack menu. Upstairs is more formal – starched white table linens – but with a retro feel created by bright tangerine walls, paintings of tropical fish, and 1950s style light fixtures hanging from the ceiling.

In true David Burke fashion, service here is impeccable and, under the day-to-day direction of executive chef Eric Hara, so is the food. The fact that Burke’s company also has its own fishing boat, guarantees patrons get the freshest catch of the day. The day I visited, I was told that the Blue Fin Tuna from Japan had been pulled out of the water just 12 hours before being served.

I started with the oysters – the featured four varieties are two from the east coast (loved the Beau Soleil from New Brunswick best) and two from the west – then a smattering of starters – called Small Plates on this menu. As I travel around the country for Travel to Wellness and magazines such as Clean Eating, I’ve found that the best way to sample is to go with a selection of appetizers instead of just one main entrée. I get to taste more with out feeling like a whale when I leave the table.

The server recommended the Rice Crispy Crabcake (innovatively rolled up like a springroll, the Soft Shell Snails (escargot served in a pasta shell), the Trio of Sashimi, the Tempura Calamari.….. I tried them all. See what I mean about ordering appetizers.

The menu is quite extensive. In addition to the Small Plates (priced from $11 to $35), Soups, Salads & Appetizers ($10 to $18), over a dozen fish and seafood entrees ($20 to $36) including both Whole Simple Fish and Fussy Fish (think more complicated preparation and presentation) and lots of Sides and Fish Top Hats (garnishes and sauces for the Simple Fish).

There’s even a small selection of TURF - Aged Ribeye, lamb and organic chicken.

The menu also has a sense of whimsy: for instance, Laughing Bird Shrimp, and Roasted Angry Mussels. I’m told it’s the chili oil that makes them “angry.”

For any seafood lover headed to NYC – Fishtail is the ultimate “catch of the day.”

 

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Travel to Wellness is published by Travel to Wellness Inc. ISSN 1923 8371

 
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