BRITISH COLUMBIA: FIT ACTIVITIES ON THE SUNSHINE COAST
by Judi Lees
British Columbia’s Sunshine Coast is a bucolic greenbelt, just a 40-minute ferry ride from West Vancouver. The fact that this 80-kilometre long coast is inaccessible by road gives it a decidedly island feel. It also means that while it is close to cosmopolitan pleasures, it is light years away from the urban bustle and, flanked by the Pacific Ocean and the Coast Mountains, it is a haven for outdoor, feel-good activities.
The silence of this night on the Sunshine Coast is broken as I dip my paddle into the ocean and hear the gentle swish.
As my kayak glides along the silvery surface, I pause to watch the full moon peak over the hillside and hear heavy breathing over my left shoulder. Strange. The other kayakers on this full moon paddle are not nearby. I turn to gaze into the eyes of a Harbour seal a mere metre away. How cool is this? I’m watching the moon rise along with one of nature’s cutest creatures.
What makes this moment even more magical is that I am in my own backyard. Along with five others, I’ve paddled out of the small bay where we live, to first watch the sun set from a nearby island, then catch the first glimpse of the September moon. Now it is playtime. Kayaking in the moon’s coppery glow we marvel at the phosphorescence – a bubbly star-like twinkling that is created by movement in the water – and savour the beauty of doing one of our favourite activities under the moon. This ritual of paddling with friends and observing some of the best that nature has to offer typifies my life on the Sunshine Coast.
Sea kayaking offers close to nature sightseeing as you follow a shoreline sculpted of granite, topped with golden lichen, sky-reaching evergreens and red-barked Arbutus trees. You paddle into fabulous fjords, perhaps admiring sailboats that have pulled into places like Smuggler Cove, a tucked-away bay where you may watch eagles swoop for fish and you take pictures of Blue heron on the shoreline.
Another option is to paddle in the Sechelt Inlet, a protected inland sea where nine wilderness campgrounds can be visit for a picnic or overnight stay. Or you can drive north to Pender Harbour to kayak a wondrous, island spangled bay – stopping for a pub lunch is a given. For visitors, there are a number of kayak companies where you can rent or book a guided trip. Halfmoon Sea Kayaks (www.halfmoonseakayaks.com) offers ‘Lunar Tours’ as well as other day and multi-day trips.
A visit to the Sunshine Coast isn’t just about water activities – even though kayakers, sailors and scuba divers come here in droves, so do hikers and cyclists. The backpack set revel in the variety of trails. There are dozens of excellent day hikes; for a good work-out and unprecedented views, my choice is Mount Daniel near Pender Harbour. Although it is about an hour-and-a-half uphill, it is well worth the sweat. The panoramic view is of islands and ocean seems to go on forever and you=ll be eye-level with soaring eagles, ravens and turkey vultures.
Serious backpackers gear up for the 180 km (110-mi) Sunshine Coast Trail between Saltery Bay and Desolation Sound on the Upper Sunshine Coast. It is a rugged route but you can treat yourself to a B&B stay midway. (www.sunshinecoast-trail.com)
The coast also ranks highly with the lycra-clad set. Day cyclists spill off the ferry and pedal to Sechelt, have lunch at a sunny pub deck, and return to the city on an evening ferry. The undulating highway – some sections have cycling lanes -- makes for a strenuous, satisfying day. Weekend pedal-pushers camp at Roberts Creek Provincial Park and camp near the beach. For true road cycling enthusiasts, there is the 400 km (248 mi) circuit that departs from Vancouver, covers the Sunshine Coast to Powell River, then a ferry ride to Vancouver Island where you head south to take a ferry back to Vancouver.
Mountain bikers have some 200 km of challenging trails draped through the forest. This sport is well organized; maps are available from Spin Cycles on the highway in Gibsons or On The Edge Bike Shop in Sechelt Village. (www.ontheedgebiking.com)
For outdoor junkies, a visit to the Sunshine Coast near Vancouver is a good fix. One last hint, there is an excellent Recreation Map & Activity Guide for sale at most stores and sports outlets.
For more information on the region, please check out www.bigpacific.com and www.sunshinecoast.com
Judi Lees is a travel writer who lives on the Sunshine Coast of British Columbia.