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FORGET THE CAVIAR FACIAL & HEAD TO PETROSSIAN
January 8, 2011
“Nutty notes, buttery flavours and a longer finish.” By his description, one would think Christopher Klapp, general manager at the sleek, street-side Petrossian Restaurant & Boutique in West Hollywood, Los Angeles was talking about wine, but the subject of his verbal clip is actually caviar.
An impressive caviar connoisseur, Klapp explains the intricacies of the marine delicacy as we taste a flight of three Transmontanus Caviar from a sustainable farm in Northern California.
The process from sturgeon to table involves selecting the eggs, the salting, the maturing, the tasting – “it’s similar to wine in a lot of ways but there are just a lot more grapes then sturgeons,” he says with a smile. He explains there are actually official caviar tasters and caviar salters and their jobs are to make sure the caviar matures while absorbing just the right amount of salt.
With tiny Mother of Pearl caviar spoons Klapp gently scoops the delicate caviar beads from their glass containers and we savour each like one might a fine aged wine.
Caviar comes in four levels of quality – Classic, Royal, Tsar Imperial and President. Klapp explains that as you up the quality you can, generally, expect a slightly larger bead (also called eggs or pearls), more nuances and complexity in flavour and, of course, the price goes up accordingly.
We look at the colour and the size of the beads then taste by crushing the caviar on the roof of the mouth. “You almost get a marine earthiness,” he says about the Tsar Imperial ($88 an ounce), the most expensive of the three we are tasting today. But he says, “just like wine, everyone experiences it differently.”
Petrossian – named for the family that launched the caviar business 90 years ago – has four outlets: the West Hollywood location, one in New York, the original in Paris, plus a small outlet in the Bellagio hotel in Las Vegas.
The West Hollywood restaurant and boutique carries caviar from seven different types of sturgeon. Beluga, the most famous and expenses of all caviars is not one of them as it’s illegal in the U.S. The most expensive caviar in the shop will run you about $450 for 50 grams. Even if you don’t plan to dine, the boutique is worth a visit.
Beyond the pure tastings, there are many ways to enjoy the luxury edible – the Caviar Sandwich or Scrambled Egg with Vodka and Caviar, for instance, but the menu extends to include more “approachable” offerings such as a Pure Beef Burger ($18) and Smoked Salmon on a Bagel ($18).
Executive chef Giselle Wellman says the delicacy is “super high in omega 3s, also contains Vitamin D and the pure protein is also low in calories.” It’s one of those fabulous ingredients that adds richness and flavour to a dish without the negative fat content.
Wellman says caviar, like avocado, has more of the “good fat.” She also loves to plan her menus around local ingredients so that’s another bonus for the wellness-minded.
For newbies looking to experience caviar for the first time, she says the Caviar Dip ($18) or
Caviar Flatbread ($26) made with just ½ oz of caviar are good choices. She whipped up a small sample of a caviar-garnished egg dish for me – absolutely delicious.
While caviar is best paired with a shot of vodka or a fine champagne, a sparkling water works well and during happy hour (Monday to Saturday between 4 p.m. and 7 p.m.) a Classic Transmontanus Caviar is offered with Vodka Martinis. Price is $49 for two.
Petrossian Restaurant & Boutique, West Hollywood
Top of Petrossian Caviar West Hollywood
