Travel To Wellness Inc.

IRELAND: SAMAS SPA, PARK HOTEL KENMARE

Story by Kate Pocock
Photos by Kate Pocock and Park Hotel Kenmare


The Spa: SÁMAS, at the Park Hotel Kenmare, County Kerry, Ireland

The Location: The hotel and spa, an E’SPA, is located at the head of the high street in the picturesque town of Kenmare—named a few years ago as “Ireland’s Best Kept Town”— in the county of Kerry in the rugged South West corner of Ireland. The town is 20 miles from Killarney, 110 miles from the Shannon airport.

The Environment: Situated on Kenmare Bay, the hotel is quietly surrounded by nature—a walking path at the bottom of the hotel garden leads you to the edge of the bay. The town itself, sitting at the tip of a peninsula jutting into the ocean, is backed by lovely serene mountains—unpolluted nature at its softest and fullest. Within minutes, you’ll be shedding your 21st-century woes.

The Distinction: Ireland is known more for its country house hotels than for its leading-edge destination spas, so it’s a treat to have two such experiences under one roof. The personal service here is top notch (see below) and the two-year-old spa is state-of-the-art in both décor and services.

The Experience: If you’ve ever dreamed of owning a large country house, with a log fire blazing in the hearth and a grandfather clock ticking away happily, with rooms decorated with antiques that are cozy rather than imposing and with a plethora of Irish whiskeys at the bar to be poured into a glass that you take to the fire with your book, welcome to Park Hotel Kenmare. The staff is so friendly, and the house so welcoming, that you might feel as if you’re living here too. Any why not? Faulty Towers it isn’t. SÁMAS, a Gaelic word meaning “Indulgence of the Senses,” is but the superlative bonus.
Given the vintage of the house, you might think the adjoining spa would be offering seaweed sessions in cabinets à la Victorian England. But no. This holistic retreat, appointed with natural wood, stone and glass, is the modern counterpart to the country house hotel.

After passing through an atmospheric tunnel that’s supposed to represent the womb, you’ll find glass walls with superlative views, a unique water hydropath that leads you from rock sauna and misting room to outdoor infinity pool with massage jets, and spacious relaxation rooms with ergonomic day beds, soft green velour mattresses and individual headsets piping lovely Irish music. Bliss.


One of the unique things about SÁMAS is that you only decide on your activities after you’ve arrived and met with staff. Arriving totally stressed from a week-long conference, I soon nixed the Irish Sea Salt and Oil Scrub and opted instead for the Stress Reliever Body Wrap. Starting with a Foot Ritual, I continued with warm mud smathering and ended with the sound of gushing water in the infinity pool, white barked trees beckoning beyond. SÁMAS also offers a whole host of daily activities from morning serenity walks and yoga stretches to Shintaido Oriental Movement for beginners and stimulating power walks at sunset. “We know that at least fifty percent of our guests are here because of the spa,” says managing director John Brennan. Indeed. Although many guests come as couples, I found it a relaxing and safe place for a single gal too.

The Accommodations: Originally built in 1897 as a railway stopover, the hotel was totally refurbished in 1986 when Francis Brennan took over as proprietor. Rooms were expanded and embellished with antiques. Many now boast sitting rooms, wrought-iron or stone balconies, and lovely views of the bay. Numerous awards have followed including “Top 50 Hotels Worldwide” and “Number 2 Spa in Europe” from Condé Nast.

The Food: While the hotel cuisine is good and breakfast involves full stomach-filling Irish delights, try to explore local restaurants like The Lime Tree next door (www.limetree-restaurant.com). Used during the Irish Famine as a centre for starving citizens who wanted to escape to the New World, it now serves up local delicacies like steamed Irish mussels, wild mushroom ravioli and goat’s cheese potato cakes by the flickering fire.

The Extras: This place is tops for service thanks to Francis and John Brennan and their staff. On arrival, I just wanted to check in and drop into oblivion. But Francis insisted that a light snack be sent to my room with a cup of tea and a brandy so I could have a good nap. They easily arrange a picnic, loan brollies and bikes, and make calls to see if there’s a spare horse for you to ride along the coast.

The Cost: The Lifestyle Programme gives two nights, two breakfasts, one dinner, daily activities, one spa treatment and use of facilities; E575 (about $860 C) per person. Their Bed and Breakfast rate (about $259 C) offers accommodation, full Irish breakfast and à la carte spa treatments—from E20 (about $35 C) for eyebrow shape and wax to E135 (about $200C) for one hour in the Thermal Suite, one treatment and one hour in the Relaxation Room. Couples choose half-day or full-day of treatments in the Couples Suite, starting at E475 (about $710 C) for two. (Editor's Note: These prices reflect the time of our visit. Please check with the spa directly for current prices.)

Beyond the Spa: Walk along nearby nature trails, cycle through town or swing a club on the adjacent 18-hole golf course that’s amongst Ireland’s best. Just steps away are the painted shop fronts of Kenmare selling Irish lace or designer Aran sweaters. Then drop a pint or two at one of the pubs like Crowley’s where rollicking live music sets locals—and visitors—to dancing no matter their talents.

What I liked best: The peace of the place and friendliness of the people. Visiting the local church one day, I was stopped by a gentleman with a message: “Welcome to our little village,’ he said. “It’s people like you from away that keep our town interesting.” We proceeded to have an interesting conversation about America and Ireland, politics and people. This sort of welcome was everywhere.

Words to the wise: This is Ireland with true Irish weather, in other words you’ll probably get wet even when away from the spa. Bring good waterproof boots and rain gear. It’s also expensive here, but worth the splurge. In fact, I ended up staying an extra day for more nature around the property and more nurture at the spa.