BRITISH COLUMBIA: SPA AT APRIL POINT RESORT
by Judy Lees
My husband and I sit on a sprawling deck, robed in white, sipping herbal tea, mesmerized by the swirling waters of Discovery Channel. Everything is in dawdling motion: the seal swimming lazily by; the drifting cloud; and my body, which has slowed to a foreign pace of idleness.
We have just had a new experience – a couples’ massage. We chose the elemental nature massage that began with a blissful foot soak in sea salt and proceeded with a full body massage with an oil base of jojoba oil. Occasionally I glanced over to see a contented smile on my husband’s face as he lies on the table beside mine. Now, on the deck sipping healthy tea, he is indeed relaxed - asleep, in fact. The Aveda Spa at April Point Resort & Spa has worked its magic.
The deal was that I would fish with him and he would spa with me. After all, he argued, Campbell River is the fishing capital of British Columbia’s West Coast. I loved the fact that April Point, on Quadra Island, a short water taxi ride from Campbell River, had recently opened an Aveda Spa. So we were off to spa and fish but we found much more.
April Point is all about being in the great outdoors. The lodge, which faces the ocean and has a wonderful tucked-into-the-trees setting, is a hub for outdoor adventure. Along with guided fishing there are whale watching and zodiac wildlife tours, kayaking, horseback riding and mountain biking.
We loved the zodiac tour that travels up the island-spangled Discovery Passage – surely one of BC’s most spectacular coastal routes. We covered some 70 kilometres, admiring Copper Cliffs where cormorants nest, and poking into pristine inlets where curious, huge sea lions surfaced beside the boat. It was thrilling to zoom over the Yuculta Rapids and, in Seymour Narrows, our guide explained the amazing history of Ripple Rock. In 1958, the rock, which had claimed some 119 vessels and 114 lives, was successfully blown up to make passage through the channel safer.
In comparison to time in a zodiac, kayaking was peaceful. We paddled past a verdant shoreline of craggy evergreens draped in moss. There were moments of excitement as we spotted eagles, mergansers, seals, sea lions and deer. We ogled the shore, hoping to spot a black bear as another guest had. We explored Quadra Island by scooter, enjoying the fact that traffic is sparse and trees and beaches are numerous.
Near the resort are wooded, well-marked trails and you can cycle to Quathiaski Cove, the tiny village, or Cape Mudge Lighthouse.
Of course, we fished. Although we were early in the season, July through October, these waters lure fishers from all over the world. The favourite catch is Chinook which can weigh in around 50 pounds but average 15-25. Unfortunately, no big were Chinook biting on this April morning but our guide, Randy MacKinnon, says they are still there for the catching. He tells us that the first week of opening, a 24-pounder was brought in as well as many in the 10 pound range. Guests are allowed two Chinook per day. MacKinnon is an advocate for catch and release.
As much as we loved the wealth of outdoor activities, April Point is also designed for down time. You can simply sit on the deck of your cottage and watch the ever-changing parade of marine traffic.
April Point Resort & Spa has 48 ocean front rooms in the main house plus cabins. It can be reached from Campbell River by water taxi or a car ferry. Quadra is the largest of the Discovery Islands.
For more information: www.aprilpoint.com
Judi Lees is a freelance writer based in British Columbia.