Travel To Wellness Inc.

CHILE: CHILLING AT HOT SPRINGS

by Kate Pocock

The Spa: Termas de Socos Hot Springs in Chile, South America

The Location: This hotel hot springs spa is in Chile’s Near North region (El Norte Chico) about three hour's drive north of Santiago via the Pan-American Highway—or one hour south of the charming colonial city of La Serena. If you’re heading north from the capital, watch for the signs for the town of Ovalle. Just south of this turn-off onto highway 45, you’ll see a sign pointing to a dirt road leading to the Hotel Termas de Socos spa (it’s well marked beside a gas station and convenience store). Follow this track through the desert for about 2 km. It ends at the resort.

The Environment: Because Chile is situated along the Pacific “rim of fire,” this long, thin country is alive with geothermal activity — from underground waters that flow at high temperatures to boiling geysers, and from volcanic mud for body wraps to a plethora of natural hot springs. A 1997 survey found over 240 hot springs—many of which are connected to spas, hotels and ski resorts.

The Distinction: The rustic yet comfortable Termas de Socos gives a true sense of the extreme geography of this beautiful country. You won’t find indoor pools, English signs or hordes of tourists (although the small hotel is packed during Chile’s summer, December to March). But what you will find is a traditional Chilean hot springs, known for its therapeutic properties since the time of the Inca. The adjacent desert under full starry skies is abloom with cacti and hopping with rabbits and other creatures. And in midweek October, you could have it all to yourself.

The Experience: My husband and I wanted an intimate experience at one of Chile’s famous hot springs, abundant throughout the 4000-km long country (about the distance from Vancouver to Toronto). And we got it. After bumping along a rough country road for two kilometers, we arrived to find an almost-deserted country-style spa. Though the hotel has been welcoming Chileans for some 40 years, it looked as if not much had changed. We felt as if we were walking into a retro film set a la Ponderosa. Have a drink at the ceramic-tiled bar, read a Spanish décor magazine by the fire in the large living room, admire the antiques and settle in for some well-deserved rest and relaxation. We found time to be quiet (not a sound except for the moos and squawks of critters) and we revelled in the surrounding nature and in the onsite double baths that pump water from underground waters filled with healthful properties.
The facilities include hot springs and a cool outdoor swimming pool, as well as Jacuzzis that can be opened to the courtyard, saunas, mud baths, steam baths, underwater pressure massages and traditional massages. The hot springs are rich in sodium and magnesium, and are an average of 82° F (27°C)— a perfect temperature for me, though almost too hot to handle for my husband. The cool pool afterward was a good idea. The bonuses were the friendly and expert massage attendants, and the excellent and unique Chilean cuisine washed down with superb local wine. As we toasted each other constantly, “Olé!”

Accommodations: The rooms, reminiscent of a rustic hacienda, come with comfortable beds, skylights, and heaters and open onto the small swimming pool. Large, welcoming sitting rooms, a dining room with a piano and a bar in the reception area add to the Chile-style country ambience.

What to eat: The hotel prides itself on the cuisine, and sure enough, when we didn’t understand what one dish involved, the chef came out to explain it with hand signals and details in halting English. We nixed the fresh river shrimp and local cheese in favour of the daily traditional gastronomic menu of corn soup, bread with cilantro salsa, spinach crepes with meat and onions covered in poppyseed sauce, dark and white chocolate mousse and dried papaya in caramel sauce, washed down with excellent local Chilean white wine. Breakfast with Nescafé and boiling tea with mint leaves was also delicious.

The Extras: The spring water here is so pure that the spa produces its own bottled water, both sparkling and flavoured with apples. You can buy it at the reception desk or at shops throughout Chile.

The Cost: One night for a double including breakfast and one spa treatment for two cost about $130 Canadian. Gourmet dinner with wine cost about $30 Canadian. (Editor's note: Please remember that prices reflect the time of our visit so be sure to check for updates before you go.)

Beyond the Spa: Nature is everywhere from the birds making a racket on the roof to the cows and bulls wandering around the front gate. Be sure to leave time for a nature walk in the adjacent desert. By night, the skies are alight with stars (the clearest skies on earth are just miles away). By day, walk through blooming cacti much taller than yourself and watch for goats, sheep and Alice-in-Wonderland-style rabbits hopping by.

What I liked best: The location of the spa, seemingly in the middle of nowhere, and the hacienda architecture made me feel as if I was staying at the Ponderosa, Spanish style. Here, without distractions, you can easily get in touch with nature and yourself.

Words to the wise: English is not widely spoken here so bring a dictionary or consider it a linguistic adventure. Also, Chile is a safe country but theft seems common in tourist areas. Lock your car and watch your cameras and purses. For those who want a more North American-style spa experience, book into the just-opened, stylish Sheraton Miramar Hotel and Convention Center located between Vina del Mar and Valparaiso (about a half hour north of Santiago). You’ll enjoy stupendous ocean views, fabulous pools and ship-style decks, a small beach and a state-of-the-art spa with water elements; doubles from $215 U.S. include breakfast, wine, and health club visits. Visit www.starwoodhotels.com or call 56-32-238-8600.

(Editor's Note: Please remember that prices reflect the time of our visit so be sure to get updated information before you go.)