THERMAE BATH SPA IN BATH, ENGLAND
by Ilona Biro
When I first visited the lovely Georgian city of Bath (in southern England) as a student back in the early 1990s, I was disappointed to discover that touring the Roman bath ruins was possible, but actually doing as the Romans did – bathing in the springs – was not.
Fast forward about 20 years and I am back in Bath - with family in tow. And blessedly, the waters are once again soothing the aches and pains of visitors. The city-owned Thermae Bath Spa is as welcoming as the waters must have been to the Druids, the Romans and the 18th-century English, when a spa season in Bath was de rigueur for ladies and gentlemen of a certain station.
The Thermae Bath Spa
Beyond the baths - other things to do in Bath
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The Thermae Bath Spa
Devised as a millennium project in 2000 and opened with much fanfare in 2006 by the Three Tenors, the Thermae's architecture (by the renowned Nicholas Grimshaw) is an artful melding of new and old. Vistas of 18th century limestone are seen through curtains of 21st century glass, making a spa visit here a true feast for the eyes.
Bathers can experience three pools here, along with four scented steam rooms, special foot baths and an enormous rain shower. The Minerva is the largest pool, perfect for anyone wanting a bit of exercise. One can swim against the current, lazily drift along with it, or simply do some lengths across it.
"Thermae Spa in Bath is Britain's only natural thermal spa "
Up on the rooftop another large pool beckons, with whirlpool jets along one side and a waterfall in the corner that's ideal for kneading sore shoulders. A soak here is magical at sunset, when Bath's honey-coloured limestone walls are bathed in golden rays, reminding me of the warm afterglow of sunset in Jerusalem.
A third pool, called the Cross Bath, is a charming throwback to the Regency era. Here in the original, circular 18th-century building is one of the three sources of the springs. The mineral-rich water can be seen pouring ceremoniously over a glass sphere as you enter.
In the middle of the open-air bath, a circular pool is available for anyone over the age of 12 meaning that my son could partake as well. This was a revelation, since children are not permitted at the Thermae.
Post spa, be sure to tour the ruins of the magnificent Roman temple and bathing complex. The extensive ruins and treasures from the spring are beautifully preserved and presented using the best of modern interpretation.
See the water's source and walk where Romans walked on the ancient stone pavements. Costumed interpreters, like the Roman soldier we spoke with, are positioned around the complex and describe their daily lives to any who ask.
Then, after touring the ruins, there’s nothing like afternoon tea at the Pump Room - another Bath tradition not to be missed. Located in a handsome Georgian building adjacent to the ruins, you can sample perfectly prepared teas, champagne, scones, finger sandwiches and cakes in the exact spot where Jane Austen took tea with friends and got inspiration for her novels.
Beyond the baths - other things to do in Bath
Bath offers lots of thing to do and the best way to start is with a hop-on-hop-off City Sightseeing double decker bus tour. On this 45-minute tour you'll get a thorough grounding in the city's rich past, along with access to Bath's more distant attractions, like the university campus and the American Museum, and the stunning gardens of Prior Park manor, owned by the man who made millions on quarrying the famous Bath limestone. Currently being restored by the National Trust, they’re well worth exploring on a warm summer day.
Assembly Rooms
The Ball Room, Octagon, Tea Room and Card Room make up the magnificent Assembly Rooms which were used in the eighteenth century for dancing, music and card playing, tea drinking and conversation. Scenes from some of the Austen movies come to life when you visit here, and in the Fashion Museum housed here, gowns from Austen's time are complemented by a wonderful contemporary fashion collection and excellent curatorial staff.
Fashion Museum
The Fashion Museum houses a world-class collection of contemporary and historical dress – from the late 16th century to the present day. Currently the museum is presenting a comprehensive exhibit of Princess Diana's many outfits and gowns illustrating the evolution of her sense of style, on display until January 2011.
No 1 Royal Crescent
The Royal Crescent is made up of 30 houses in an imposing semi-circle with sweeping lawns to the front. Set on a rise above Bath, the Crescent is occupied by private residents and is one of the most famous addresses in all of England. Designed by John Wood the Younger, No 1 was the first house to be built in the Crescent, in 1767, and today it has been redecorated and furnished to show how it might have appeared in the late eighteenth century.
Bath Abbey & Heritage Vaults Museum
Bath Abbey (1499) is the last of the great medieval churches of England. Its famous stained glass windows and soaring vaulted ceiling have given it the nickname 'Lantern of the West'. Fascinating archeological finds are documented in the museum.
Jane Austen Centre
The Jane Austen Centre celebrates Bath's most famous resident with a permanent exhibition and knowledgeable guides. There are displays of her life and family, the social intricacies of Georgian-era Bath, contemporary maps and unique photographic enlargements, elegant period costumes and a specially made film.
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Ilona Biro is a Toronto-based freelance writer.
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